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Illustration: Greg Morgan (Family Photos Courtesy of Astrid Salazar) 

Of Mary, Joseph, and Menorahs
December is a time when Latinos combine rituals from the Old World with those inspired by living in the United States.

By Roger Hernández
December 2005/January 2006

mexican holidays: three months of christmas

thirsty for culture

ajiaco

roast suckling pig

pineapple fritters

spanish nougat

cornstarch pudding

original daiquiri cocktail

The Scent of Nostalgia
Astrid Salazar inhales the aromas of roast chicken and corn arepas wafting from the kitchen and is transported back to her childhood. She recalls spending Nochebuena, Christmas Eve, at her parents’ home in Bogotá.

“We would go to the mountains to gather moss for the pesebre,” or crèche, she says.

Moss is rare in urban Elizabeth, New Jersey, where Salazar now lives with her children. The family gave up picking moss 20 years ago when they arrived in the United States. And los Reyes Magos, the Three Kings, have been replaced by Santa Claus.

Some holiday traditions that immigrants took for granted in “the old country” fade away in the United States. Yet other Christmas customs familiar to Colombians—and to other Hispanics—continue to flourish.

As in most of the Spanish-speaking world, the Salazars hold the big family meal on Nochebuena instead of Christmas day. “We usually gather at the grandparents’ house,” Salazar says. The multicultural gathering includes not just Colombians, but cubanos, portugueses y americanos.

There may not be a lot of moss around town, but there’s certainly plenty of masa for arepas.


Shedding Light on Jánuka
When people find out Daniel Santacruz is Hispanic and Jewish, a common reaction is, “Huh?” Of course, there is no contradiction: Jews immigrated to Latin America centuries ago when expelled from Spain. Other Hispanics converted to Judaism, as did Santacruz.

Jánuka rituals are recognizable to Jews from Buenos Aires to Moscow to Tel Aviv. Or in Teaneck, New Jersey, where the Santacruzes live.

The holiday commemorates the miracle in 165 B.C.E. when the Maccabees reclaimed the Temple of Jerusalem for Jewish worship and a flask of oil lasted eight days. During the holiday, a nine-armed candelabra symbolizes the miracle. Family members kindle a candle for each of the eight nights of the Festival of Lights. Children and adults then recite Hebrew prayers and sing “Ocho candelikkas” in Ladino, a dialect of medieval Castilian spoken by Jews with Spanish roots.


“We light the candles at sunset, by Jewish law,” Santacruz explains. “You’re supposed to light candles by a window to publicize the miracle.”


Emergence of Tradition
Alisa Valdes-Rodriguez, author of The Dirty Girls Social Club and Playing With Boys, shares her story.

Since becoming a mother, the holidays matter.

When I was single and childless, I didn’t much care about the holidays. I wasn’t raised with a religion, other than hippie Marxism. I saw the holidays as another excuse to worship the god of consumerism.

But the birth of my son, Alexander, now four, and my return to Albuquerque, New Mexico, the city of my childhood, changed all that.

I didn’t have a religious awakening or anything, but I did suddenly feel a need for ritual in our lives. And magic. Kids need magic, and I needed magic, too.

I found the Unitarian Universalist Church, where all faiths are respected—including secular skepticism—and began to celebrate everything from Easter to Christmas.


Thanksgiving, in particular, became meaningful for me, because Alexander has given me much to be thankful for.


I now look forward to the holidays the same way I used to look forward to birthdays when I was a kid. I’ve cobbled together a new set of traditions for Alexander and me, including a big Cuban meal on Nochebuena or on New Year’s Eve, attended by family and friends. There’s no feeling like standing in my kitchen with loved ones, listening to Cachao’s Cuban music, and sipping cafecito while a big pot of moros y cristianos simmers on the stove. It’s almost…holy. And it connects Alex and me to our Cuban heritage in a real way.

My mother’s family is native New Mexican, and I’ve tried to incorporate their traditions, including lining the walls and roof of my adobe house with luminarias and baking bizcochitos.

I suspect Alexander will one day be as scientifically minded as his mother. But for now, the look of wonder on his face as we leave a plate of cookies for Santa Claus is worth the suspension of my carefully cultivated cynicism
.—Alisa Valdes-Rodriguez



Now discover the colorful traditions associated with
Christmas in Mexico and try your hand at making ajiaco, buñuelos (fritters) or some of our other festive recipes.

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