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Photo: MacDuff Everton/Corbis |
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Puerto Rico, Island of Enchantment
Half a millennium ago, a legendary military commander governed a tropical paradise on behalf of a king who lived a world away. In his later years, this commander led a mythic expedition searching for the ultimate health spa— a stream whose waters would renew life. He never found the fountain of youth, but Juan Ponce de León did attain a measure of historical immortality by discovering Florida. And, best of all, we still have the tropical paradise, now called Puerto Rico, that he once governed. Though Puerto Rico may be best known today for giving us contemporary superstars such as Jennifer Lopez and Ricky Martin, the island still holds the "rich port" of treasures that captivated Ponce de León. In this melting pot, African and Spanish traditions merge with those of the indigenous people, creating a vibrant culture. The local language (Spanish), and religion (Catholicism), for example, are infused with indigenous and African touches. Puerto Rico's colorful history, tropical climate, and unique cultural heritage make it a year-round vacation destination. The island is only 100 miles long and 35 miles wide, which is good news for tourists. Wherever you want to go is within a three-hour drive, no matter where you are.
Most visits to Puerto Rico begin in the capital city, San Juan. Because the city offers such variety and resources, many visitors make San Juan their home during their stay on the island. The many neighborhoods in the city offer everything from international resort hotels and spas, to art museums, shopping galleries, fine dining, Las Vegas-style gaming, and a tasting tour at the largest rum distillery in the world. At night, San Juan's many nightclubs and pubs come alive with salsa and live jazz. So don't forget to pack your dancing shoes. The heart of the capital is El Viejo San Juan, a historic seven-block walled section of cobblestone streets dotted with colonial architecture, museums, and art galleries. The best way to see this area is on a walking tour. Stroll past such highlights as the beautiful Catedral de San Juan, Ponce de León's final resting place, and the imposing Fuerte San Felipe del Morro, known as "El Morro," which is perched at the entrance to La Bahía de San Juan. Visit El Fuerte de San Cristóbal, which forms the eastern gate to the walled city; La Fortaleza, completed in 1540, the oldest governor's mansion in the Western Hemisphere still in use today; and Casa Blanca, which served as a residence of Ponce de León's descendants for 250 years before becoming a museum. Even the wall of the old city itself is a wonder. Known as "La Muralla," it was built between 1539 and 1782, with sandstone blocks that are 20 feet thick in places, in order to ward off enemy attacks. Other notable sights in El Viejo San Juan include the Museo Pablo Casals, which documents the career of the renowned cellist and serves as the headquarters for the annual Festival Casals. For a real sense of history, spend a night or two at Hotel El Convento or The Gallery Inn. Both are imposing 18th century structures recently refurbished as modern hotels. No doubt you'll also want to visit the main shopping area in El Viejo San Juan, known as "Calle del Cristo." Here you'll find local craft specialties, such as wooden santos, mundillo lace, and vejigante masks-elaborate, multicolored, papier-mâché masks worn at carnivals. Venture outside of San Juan in a rented car or tour bus, and you'll find countless attractions in every direction. Getting around is easier than ever, thanks to the new high-tech, 24-hour information kiosks scattered throughout the island. The kiosks provide maps, information about local sites, and even hotel reservations, all free of charge. Set off in a southeasterly direction from San Juan, and an hour later, you'll encounter the rainforest, El Yunque. This spectacular ecosystem is home to hundreds of species of tropical trees, flowers, and wildlife. It is also a short distance from Playa Luquillo, one of Puerto Rico's most popular stretches of white sand coastline. West of San Juan is one of the island's oldest natural wonders, Las Cavernas del Río Camuy. Walk down into the world's third largest cave system, which has a river running through it, as well as tropical vegetation, stalagmites, and geologic formations that date back millions of years. Puerto Rico's second largest city, Ponce, lies to the south of San Juan. The city is known for its many plazas, historic churches, and the Museo de Arte de Ponce. Designed by the same architect who designed the Museum of Modern Art in New York City, El Museo de Ponce houses a collection of European artwork that rivals the galleries of Paris. If you'd rather be in the sunshine, head for the boardwalk along the beach. The area is known for its many kiosks that serve a variety of fried delicacies. Be sure to try the frituras, fritters stuffed with nearly every ingredient available from land or sea. La Parguera, a seaside town a few hours southwest of San Juan, features some of the best beaches on the entire island. But you'll have to wait until dark to experience the town's most famous attraction: a magnificent phosphorescent bay. Local boat operators will take you out to see this amazing phenomenon, best seen under a moonless or slightly cloudy sky. When the captain turns off the boat's lights, the water around you will light up with a blue-green glow. Run your hands through the water to stir up a sparkling glitter, as fish dart about in streaks of light. The secret to this neon magic? The waters contain one of the world's densest concentrations of bioluminescent plankton, microscopic "fireflies" of the tropics. Puerto Rico's ancient cultures are showcased at the Centro Ceremonial Indígena de Tibes, an archaeological site unearthed by a hurricane in 1975. The park contains artifacts of civilizations that lived on the island around the time of the birth of Jesus Christ. Don't miss the ball courts or bateyes, the ceremonial dance plazas, mysterious petroglyphs, and the recreated indigenous village. The island's more recent past comes alive at Hacienda Buena Vista, a renovated coffee farm that gives visitors a glimpse of what rural life was like in the 19th century. The Faro Maunabo, a lighthouse structure from the 19th century, offers stunning views of the Caribbean and Vieques. Both Vieques and its neighboring island, Culebra, are well worth the 90-minute ferry ride or 15-minute plane ride from the eastern port town of Fajardo. Both National Wildlife refuges, Vieques and Culebra offer spectacular bird-watching opportunities. Although Puerto Rico has a wealth of historical treasures, it also holds an intriguing link to the future with the observatory at Arecibo, located on the northwest corner of the island. There, scientists run a provocative SETI ("search for extraterrestrial intelligence") program. The observatory houses the world's largest single-dish telescope. This radiotelescope points out into the universe, listening for sounds from distant galaxies. Many in the scientific community believe that if human beings are ever to make contact with "intergalactic neighbors," it will happen through the Arecibo telescope. A pointless quest? Perhaps. But, no more so than the search for the fountain of youth. Now check out some sites that are useful resources for information in both Spanish and English and then test your knowledge about the island of enchantment. |
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