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photo: stuart franklin/magnum |
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Mexican Holidays: The Three Months of Christmas
In Mexico, the Christmas season lasts from December to February. Traditions are particularly vibrant in Guadalajara, Oaxaca, and Mexico City. At Christmas time, Guadalajara and its quaint neighboring towns form a perfect backdrop for one of Mexico's most enduring holiday traditions, the posadas. Held from December 16 to 24, the posada commemorates Mary and Joseph's search for an inn in Bethlehem. In the evening, children dressed as Mary and Joseph lead a parade of other children dressed as shepherds, angels, and the three kings. They roam from house to house, asking for lodging. Behind them, a congregation carries candles and lanterns, singing traditional songs. After the group is refused at each "inn," it arrives at a prearranged home, whose occupants welcome the entire party in for a fiesta. Treats such as buñuelos and ponche, a hot fruit drink, are served, and the children rush for candy from a piñata. The last of the posadas, on Christmas Eve, is typically the most festive. Guests proceed to midnight mass, then congregate for a feast, which typically includes tamales, cod, and roasted turkey or pig. During the holidays, Nativity scenes, or nacimientos, are a fixture in Mexican households. Families take pride in their heirloom collections of figures made of wood, clay, or metal. Some displays can take up an entire room! Many of the prized figurines are made in the Guadalajara suburb of Tlaquepaque. World-renowned for its pottery, Tlaquepaque hosts an annual competition of nativity scenes each December. Villagers from the town of Ajijic, located 30 miles southeast of Guadalajara, on Lake Chapala, take the nacimiento to the next level. Each Christmas Eve, they stage a pageant, with real people taking the place of figurines.
Oaxaca is another city that comes alive with festivities during the holiday season. During the holidays, Oaxacans stage biblical shepherds' plays, called Pastorelas, and processions of decorated floats, known as Calendas, in the Zócalo (central square). The most famous (and bizarre) holiday tradition in Oaxaca, the Night of the Radishes, takes place on December 23. Thousands throng to attend this competitive display of Nativity scenes and other sculptures-carved out of gigantic locally grown radishes. In December, Our Lady of Guadalupe is honored for nine days, beginning on December 3, and culminating on her feast day, December 12. During this time, thousands of pilgrims jam the plaza, many approaching on their knees. Others congregate to sing, dance, and celebrate in honor of the Patroness of Mexico. During the holiday season, the canal boats in Xochimilco are festooned with lights and other festive decorations. Be sure not to miss the Zócalo on New Year's Eve, when crowds gather for fireworks, singing, dancing, and revelry lasting well into the morning. When the clock strikes midnight, it is customary to eat twelve grapes, ensuring good luck during each month of the coming year. After New Year's Day, Mexican children look forward to receiving presents on January 6, the feast of Epiphany. A special ring-shaped cake, known as Rosca de Reyes is served that day. Tucked away inside the cake is a small figurine of a baby. Whoever gets the slice with the figurine hidden in it must hold the next party, on February 2. Known as Candlemas, this festival commemorates the day when Mary and Joseph first presented Jesus in the Temple. Thus does the Christmas season in Mexico culminate, with warmth and joy. |
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